Lawn Care Services in Milwaukee

Reengineered Lawn Installation Program Yields Amazing Results

With the right leader, right team and right approach, our clients’ new lawn installations have a much greater chance of success. This was tested and proven in 2023.

Challenges in Lawn Installation:

Establishing a new green, lush, healthy lawn is particularly challenging in Wisconsin due to several factors:

  • Climate variability: Wisconsin experiences a wide range of climate conditions, from cold winters with snow cover to hot, humid summers. Sudden temperature fluctuations and unpredictable weather patterns can stress newly seeded lawns and hinder their establishment.
  • Soil composition: The soil composition in Wisconsin varies across different regions, but it often consists of heavy clay soils or sandy soils with low organic matter content. These soil types can present challenges for lawn establishment.
  • Weed and pest pressure: Wisconsin’s diverse ecosystem supports a wide range of weeds, pests, and diseases that can pose significant challenges to newly installed lawns.

This year, we reengineered our lawn installation program and witnessed remarkable success—marking a departure from past challenges in achieving vibrant lawns. Under the guidance of our new lawn care specialist, Chris, we introduced a new seed type known for its and quick germination and drought resistance, ensuring a healthy lawn even during periods of adverse growing conditions.  We also changed our protocols to include testing of soil quality, followed by targeted amendments where necessary. These steps lays the groundwork for optimal growing conditions.

As always, pictures truly tell the story.

Drought Resistant Seed

Below shows our client’s green lawn as compared to their neighbor. This image was taken during the height of the drought this summer. The berm area shows how untreated/standard grass compares to the lawn cared for by our team. Wow!

Reengineered Lawn Installation

Tackling Soil Acidity is Key Element in Reengineered Lawn Installation Program

For the client pictured below, the soil was highly acidic, which meant no seed would grow properly. We addressed the acidity to fix the problem, re-seeded it in June and by October their lawn was a showstopper.  This example is one reason testing for acidity is part of our standard practice to ensure we are accounting for the soil condition up front.

Quick Seed Germination

You can see just how quickly our new seed germinates in these pictures. From seed on day 6 to a lush lawn on day 10!

This next image is an example of how quickly our reengineered lawn installation program can yield results. The lush, green lawn seen below is only one month from installation.

Reengineered Lawn Installation Program

We couldn’t be more pleased with the results our reengineered lawn installation program has delivered for our clients. It is a testament to a guiding principle of our business, which is to always look for ways to improve our services. If you are in need of lawn care assistance, reach out today to learn more about your options. We have a program to suit every lawn!

How to Care for Your Sod

Keeping a lush, green lawn isn’t a matter of luck; it requires understanding the basics of how to care for your sod, and in this article, we’ll guide you through comprehensive steps to help your newly laid sod flourish. As the literal groundwork for your outdoor space, sod needs proper care to ensure that your lawn thrives, provides aesthetic value, and remains a space for relaxation and enjoyment for years to come.


Watering New Sod

During the first seven to ten days, the sod should be kept moist at all times. In the absence of adequate rainfall, watering should be performed daily or as often as necessary during the first week and in sufficient quantities to maintain moist soil to a depth of at least four inches. It takes a lot of water to penetrate the sod and the soil below it. Let the sprinklers run at least an hour in a spot except on steep slopes. Generally each spot will need a thorough soaking every other day unless it is very hot then every day. Watering should be done either in the early morning or in the mid to late afternoon to reduce evaporation. In the second and subsequent weeks, water the sod as required to maintain adequate moisture in the upper four inches of soil, necessary for the promotion of deep root growth. This will need to be done for a minimum of three or four weeks, depending on weather conditions.

The edges of the lawn and the parts along the walks and the house are most likely to dry first, so make sure to water heavily and frequently in these areas. Steeply sloped lawn areas may see the sod slip if watered too heavily. In these areas, water more frequently, but not as heavily. Your grass will always let you know if it is not getting enough water. If the sod begins to shrink and the seams open, it is drying out. If the grass looks gray and doesn’t spring back when you walk on it, it is wilted and needs water.


After you soak the lawn the first time it will be very soft. Do not walk on it. You will poke big holes in the lawn. Set your sprinklers so you can pull them to the next spot with the hose without walking on the grass. Avoid using the lawn area for at least two weeks or until it is firm enough to prevent foot steps.


The first mowing should not be attempted until the sod is firmly rooted and securely in place. Use extra care with the first mowing and make certain that cutting blades are maintained in sharp condition. Additionally, a light-weight mower is highly recommended while the lawn is establishing it’s root system. No more than 30% of the grass leaf should be removed by the initial or subsequent mowings. Initially this may require every other day cuttings, reducing each cut in ½” increments until the desired maintained height of 2 ½” – 3” is achieved. Cutting the grass shorter than 2 ½” will sacrifice root penetration down into the soil. The root system accommodates the height of the leaf blade so that the higher the height the deeper the root, resulting in a thicker, healthier lawn. Longer cutting height also gives the added advantages of conserving soil moisture due to increased shading and less area for weeds to penetrate.


Once the sod is fully established, a yearly fertilizer/weed control maintenance program should be set up to maintain a healthy, vital turf grass stand. We recommend a five-step program with applications in early spring, late spring, summer, early fall and late fall. For best results, it is important to use products specifically designed for their respective times of year, applied at the recommended rates.


Core aeration is recommended for sodded lawns to break up the thatch layer, enhance water penetration into the soil, reduce soil compaction, and improve air exchange into the soil, however it is important to not aerate until the root system is established in the soil. 6-12 months is a good time to wait before aerating your lawn. Optimum aeration times are during spring (March through May) and fall (August through November).

By attentively monitoring watering practices, promptly addressing pests or diseases, and conducting regular maintenance like mowing and fertilizing, you can ensure the health and longevity of your sod. These methods are not just practical steps, but an investment in the aesthetic value and enjoyment of your property, promising a rewarding return in the form of a beautiful, verdant lawn. If you need assistance with your lawn care maintenance, contact us today to discuss your options.

How We Keep Your Lawn Healthy and Thriving

Beautiful lawns in Wisconsin do not happen by accident. We keep your lawn healthy and thriving through our Integrated Pest Management Program. In our industry, “pest” refers to anything that invades your lawn and compromises its health. This includes pesky critters, like grubs and also includes all the weeds we battle in Wisconsin landscapes. We believe in treating problems at the source with as little environmental impact as possible, as opposed to simply throwing products onto your lawn. Our goal for every client is a healthy, green, weed-free lawn.

Pre-emergent Weed Control

Does your lawn struggle with unsightly weeds? If you have a historic problem with keeping your yard free of weeds, then our Pre-Emergent Weed Control service is for you. Our technicians will apply this treatment before weeds arrive in the spring, keeping your yard clean and reducing the amount of herbicide required throughout the season.

Early Spring Treatment

As turf emerges from dormancy, it needs proper fertilization to thrive. Our first granular fertilizer treatment also comes with a pre-emergent crabgrass preventer. If you typically struggle with a crabgrass problem, a split-rate application will be applied for Round 1 and Round 2.

Spring Treatment

Our late spring application consists of a custom-blended organic fertilizer with micronutrients for promoting root development and long-lasting deep color. Biologically active soil is the key to turf health. Our fertilizer is designed to not only feed your turf, but the soil itself. This application also includes post-emergent weed control, to eliminate weeds before they can take over your lawn.

Spring Grub Preventative

japanese beetles

Due to hot, dry summers and mild winters over the past several years, Japanese beetle populations have become a major issue. Within a matter of days, grubs can devastate your lawn if left unchecked. To prevent catastrophic damage to your yard, we offer a granular grub control treatment, applied in May. Our treatment utilizes the safest, longest-lasting product on the market, with the smallest environmental footprint.

Summer Treatment

Lawn mowing and trimming

Summer is a difficult time for cool-season turf. Its roots struggle in high heat, and often, grass goes dormant and turns brown. While this is a perfectly natural function of turf, it is possible to keep your lawn green and healthy during this time. Along with proper mowing and watering, our fertilization application can keep your turf and soil well-fed. Weed control will also be applied as needed.

Summer Grub Curative

During summer, Japanese beetles lay their eggs in turf. When they hatch, grubs begin feeding on the roots of your grass, causing widespread damage in a short amount of time. Affected turf will pull out of the ground with little effort, as its roots have been eaten away. To combat this, a granular curative treatment will be applied. If you have an active grub infestation, it is vital to treat as quickly as possible. Call us to schedule a treatment if you are experiencing active grub damage.

Late Summer Treatment

As temperatures begin to decline and rainfall returns, turf begins to emerge from summer dormancy. It is important to make sure turf is properly fed to help it recover from the heat. Our custom-blended organic fertilizer will keep your soil thriving and your grass green. We will also apply weed control to keep your yard weed free.


Compaction is an often-overlooked problem in turf health. It reduces root development and nutrient uptake, restricts oxygen flow to the roots and soil microbes, and promotes the effects of stress, heat, fungus, and weeds. To relieve compaction, we recommend core aeration. This can be done either in the spring or fall, though fall is preferred. We utilize the latest technology to ensure even the most compacted soil is properly aerated. An overseeding option can also be added. We use only genetically superior grass seed that can root up to 4 feet deep, allowing it to withstand extreme temperatures as well as insect damage. Our grass seed germinates quickly and requires less water and fertilizer to stay healthy once established. A waxy coating on the leaf surface helps lock in moisture, and a naturally deep-green color will ensure you have a showcase yard all season long.

Fall Treatment

Our winterizer treatment is one of the most important applications of the year. Potash builds cell structure within the turf, and helps it to survive the stress of winter. This treatment will also assist with faster green-up once spring arrives.

Soil Conditioning and pH Adjustment

Soil pH is everything when it comes to turf health. Too acidic, or too alkaline, and the plant will not feed properly. No lawn can thrive without properly balanced, microbially active soil. Fertilization, excessive watering, and decomposing organic matter can naturally acidify a lawn over time. To rectify this, a granular soil amendment can be applied to adjust soil pH to a healthy range.

If you have poor soil, or no topsoil, a granular amendment can be applied to stimulate soil microbes which break down organic matter and covert it to humus. Call us at 262-252-4260 to assess your soil needs.

We would be happy to provide you with an accurate assessment and estimate for our comprehensive lawn care program. Contact us today to schedule a consultation.

Caring for a Newly Seeded Lawn

Caring for a newly seeded lawn properly is critical to see the healthy, lush grass you hope to achieve. The four to eight week period following seeding is the most critical time for proper follow-up care when a dense, uniform, well-rooted turf is being formed. There are more lawn establishment failures due to improper follow-up care during this time period than those due to improper seed selection, site preparation or seeding techniques.


Water is the most important factor in establishing a lawn. Daily irrigation should is important. The top ½” of soil should be kept consistently moist. Initially this may require morning, early afternoon, mid-to-late afternoon watering of about ¼” – ½” each time. A good way to determine how much water is being applied is to place a container (e.g. a coffee can) in the sprinkler’s path and time how long it takes to collect ½” of water. Light daily irrigation (¼” – ½”) should be continued for 3-4 weeks.

During hot, dry conditions you may need to increase the frequency of watering to maintain moisture in the soil surface. As the turf develops, watering frequency can be cut back due to the shading effect on the soil. New turf still requires a minimum of 1” water a week for continued growth.


Fertilizer applications are also critical when caring for newly seeded lawns. A starter fertilizer that is high in phosphorus was applied at seeding time to promote faster germination. However, new seedlings need ½ lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. every 4 weeks. This can be applied in various forms (19-3-7; 20-2-7; etc.) and will result in a much healthier, thicker lawn than a lawn not fertilized. This rate should be continued for 4-8 weeks. The fertilization requirements provide the nutrients for growth and the ability to stave off disease, weeds, and insect infestation. Once the lawn has been established, a yearly maintenance program should be set up to maintain a healthy vital turf grass stand.


Lawn mowing and trimming

Start mowing your newly seeded lawn when the blades reach a height of 3½” to 4” removing only 30 percent of the leaf blade to a maintained height of 2½” to 3”. Cutting the grass shorter than 2 ½” will sacrifice root penetration down into the soil. The root system accommodates the height of the leaf blade so that the higher the height the deeper the root, resulting in a thicker, healthier lawn. Longer cutting height also gives the added advantages of conserving soil moisture due to increased shading and less area for weeds to penetrate.


The process of seeding exposes existing weed seeds in the soil to conditions favorable for their germination. Usually what you see in the first few weeks is a combination of annual grasses and broadleaf weeds. Although these weed type plants are unsightly, they can easily be eliminated in time. The general rule of thumb for eliminating broadleaf weeds is to wait until the entire turf area has been mowed 3-4 times before applying a liquid weed control or a granular fertilizer and weed control combination. Annual grass type weeds grow for 1 year, go to seed and die out. If you maintain a good fertilization program and watering schedule your turf should be thick enough the following year to eliminate the reappearance of annual grasses.

Another option would be to apply crabgrass preventer to control annual grasses. This should be done only after your lawn has been in for a full year and no additional seeding is planned within 2-3 months prior to or following the application of the crabgrass preventer. The best time for crabgrass control is in mid-May. The longer you can tolerate the weeds the better for the new seed unless the weeds are so bad they are squeezing out the grass areas. Traffic should be restricted on a new lawn for at least a month. New seedlings are easily damaged by foot traffic.

Be patient with the progress of the new lawn. Your new lawn will take a couple seasons to start looking like an established lawn. Seeding is by far the best way to establish a lawn for the long term. Taking the steps outlined above in caring for your newly seeded lawn will give you the best chance for a healthy, enjoyable lawn for years to come.

Spotting and Treating Summer Lawn Fungal Diseases

Rising temperatures, combined with humidity create the perfect conditions for summer lawn fungal diseases to emerge. While some are cosmetically unappealing, but harmless, other summer lawn fungal diseases are more serious and require treatment. Spotting and treating summer lawn fungal diseases often requires a professional’s eye and guidance for proper treatment. Here is a primer on spotting and treating summer lawn fungal diseases.

Harmless, but Unsightly Lawn Fungal Diseases

All three of these will not kill the turf. Fungicides should only be used in severe cases. A good shot of fertilizer will help to grow out the disease.

Severe Lawn Fungal Diseases

Pythium Blight

Pythium blight tends to hit perennial ryegrass the hardest. It first appears as small, sunken, circular patches. Affected leaves will be matted down and look orange or dark gray, and greasy. This disease pops up when there is excess moisture on the grass and night temperatures exceed 65 degrees. Excess fertilization will also favor the growth of Pythium Blight. This disease must be treated with a fungicide immediately, and watering needs to be adjusted or shut off until it’s under control. Affected turf will have to grow the disease out, and if caught early, could recover. If caught too late, then the lawn will need to be re-seeded.

Brown Patch

Brown patch tends to affect fescue the hardest. It appears with small, round, bleached to straw colored spots. It’s important to avoid excess fertilization after Memorial Day, because nitrogen contributes to the spread of the fungus and can actually kill a lawn with active Brown Patch disease . Fungicides should be applied immediately, and watering adjusted or shut off.

Leaf Spot

 Leaf spot tends to affect bluegrass the hardest. Small, round lesions will appear on the leaf surface. If not treated early enough with fungicide, the grass blades will go through a process called “melting out”, and the roots and crown of the grass will rot and die. Leaf spot can be prevented by ensuring you don’t mow the lawn too short. It’s also important to keep mower blades sharp, as dull blades can tear the leaf tip and leave it susceptible to infection. Like patch disease, applying nitrogen to an active leaf spot outbreak will kill the turf, as the fungus will attack any lush, new growth.

Is it Fungus or Insects?

To the untrained eye, whether you are facing a fungal disease or an insect issue can be difficult discern. One way to distinguish is to identify whether the damage is spotty or contiguous. Fungus tends to “hop” from spot to spot, while insect damage is generally contiguous. Also, in the morning, you might notice some white, wispy, spider-web looking material on the grass during the morning. This is mycelium, and it’s how fungus moves around. It will burn off in the late morning and won’t be visible past then. Infected turf leaves will have small lesions on the blades at the outer edge of the infected area. And of course, the best way to tell if whether you have an insect issue is if you spot the critters on your turf.

How to Prevent Fungal Diseases

The best way to fight fungal outbreaks is to minimize the conditions that favor them.

Watering: Do not water your lawn before 4am or past 5pm during summer. The reason behind this practice is that it is important to let lawns dry out before night. This encourages good air flow, which is critical to reducing fungal outbreaks. For established lawns, our experts recommend 1” of water per week, either in one session or split between a ½” session twice a week.

Mowing: Lawns that are shorter than 3 ½” are more at risk of developing fungal disease. During summer, especially the hotter months, our team recommends mowing between 3 ½” and 4”.

Pro Tip! American Landscape Lawn Maintenance clients can request our new moisture manager, which is a great option to keep turf hydrated while reducing the amount of water needed. The moisture manager binds water into the root zone, keeping the leaf surface drier for longer.

Our lawn care experts also recommend keeping mower blades sharp to avoid unnecessary turf injury. If your lawn has an active fungal disease, you may need to disinfect mower wheels and blades to avoid spreading fungal spores throughout your lawn.

Fungal Disease Treatment

If, despite your best efforts, your lawn falls victim to a fungal disease, we recommend the use of fungicides. It’s important to remember that these products do not cure turf disease, they simply arrest its development. Fungicides buy you time. Infected turf should be sprayed and given time to grow the disease out. And of course, different diseases require different fungicides to treat.  We highly recommend engaging professional lawn care experts to treat your lawn.

American Landscape’s lawn care professionals have years of experience in spotting and treating lawn fungal diseases. Get in touch today to learn about our maintenance program options or for a consultation on your lawn care needs. (262)252-4260


May Landscaping Checklist


  • Remove spent flowers and foliage (once yellowed) on spring flowering.
  • Plant tender annuals after the last expected frost date, approximately May 15.
  • Set flower supports early. Let plants grow through them.
  • Over-wintered tender annuals or tropicals such as hibiscus, gardenia, mandevilla and geranium may be pruned, cleaned, fertilized and gradually introduced to a protected location outdoors once night temperatures reach 50°F.
  • Begin pinching top 1-2 inches of new growth on chrysanthemums to encourage full bushy plants.
  • Prune sage, butterfly bush, Russian sage and Caryopteris back to the point of new growth.
  • With sharp spade, edge flower beds.


  • Fertilize with a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer and apply a broadleaf herbicide for weed control.
  • Make sure you are mowing at the proper height.  Never remove more than 1/3 of the turf height at one time.  We recommend keeping your grass at a length of approximately 3”.
  • Re-seed or repair damaged turf areas. Keep newly seeded or sodded turf areas well watered.


  • Prune spring flowering shrubs right after they are done flowering.  These plants use the growing season to develop next year’s flowers, so pruning them late in the season will prune off next year’s blooms!  These include:  Forsythia, lilac, viburnum, fothergilla, kerria, mockorange and weigela.
  • Start monitoring your plants for pest infestations. Insects in moderation are a natural and necessary part of the environment, but excessive groups of them or excessive damage from them sometimes warrants treatment.  Contact your landscape professional for identification and a treatment plan.
  • Apply systemic insecticides to trees and shrubs (for example birch & viburnums) prone to borer right after they are done blooming.
  • It’s still a good time to apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to shrubs and perennials.

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